There are some business dinners where you actually need to do business. This requires a restaurant that makes an impression, but not such an impression that it distracts from the work at hand.

The Napa Grill fills this role nicely. Those who recall J's seafood restaurant in Hyde Park remember a quiet, classy but not pretentious place with good food and exceptional service. Napa Grill opened in the J's location with a contemporary menu and a special emphasis on fine wines.

The atmosphere and attitude are behaved. This is still a place where what's said in private can remain private, and patrons are not bombarded with background clamor or annoying music. The Napa Grill has plenty of elbow room. You can stretch a little after a long day and spread out plans. There's no private room, but Manager Craig Nuncio talks to every customer and can happily accommodate your needs. With a little notice he can get you a quiet spot in the side room for chat, even for a large group.

Another strategic advantage is location. If you're pulling business diners together from Northern Kentucky, downtown, Blue Ash and West Chester, the Napa Grill would make an easy rendezvous with its location right off the Dana Avenue exit from I-71.

As you would expect, what's most impressive at the Napa Grill is the wine. The novel-sized menu devotes a few pages to food and the rest to 500 varieties of varietals. They probably sell more fine wines by the glass (nearly 60) than any place in town. And the glasses are large, so half-glasses are offered as well.The menu includes wine pairings with each entree to make selections painless. The eight wine flights show imagination. Looking to break a Chardonnay habit? Try the "Splendid Sauvignon Blancs" (a sampling that takes you from New Zealand to the Loire Valley), or the "90 Point Pinot Grigios."

And if you want to pick a bottle on your own but barely know your way around a corkscrew, the servers will put you at ease with recommendations to fit any taste or expense account.

What about the food? Many items on the menu have a twist, but this is not the place for the most innovative dishes in town. The upside: There's nothing here to scare the non-adventurous palate. Among the many safe bets: lamb a few different ways, penne arrabiata with shrimp, and the expected selections of  steaks. Vegetarians are mostly limited to the salads, and the menu could use a couple of larger ones for those diners. The entree prices are reasonable, topping at $36.

Napa Grill: A good spot to dazzle a wine aficionado before sealing a deal.